El Carmen Estate is located at 1,300m above sea level in El Salvador’s Apaneca-Ilamatepec mountain range, one of Central America’s prime specialty coffee producing areas. The estate has been farmed by the Alfaro family for over a century.
El Carmen lies in the heart of El Salvador’s main ‘protected highway’ of forest, a part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor System that stretchesall the way from Mexico down to Panama. In El Salvador, where more than 80% of the country’s coffee is produced under shade, this eco-system is based mainly in the coffee forest.For this reason, coffee farms such as El Carmen play a vital role as a sanctuary for hundreds of the migratory and native bird species found in this part of the world.
The estate was founded in the middle of the 19thcentury when Antonio José Alfaro acquired a plot of land near the village of Ataco –meaning ‘Site of Elevated Springs’ in the indigenous Nahuatl language –where he started to produce coffee. His son, Agustin Alfaro, founder of the Salvadoran National Coffee Company, followed in his father’s footsteps and established El Carmen as one of El Salvador’s leading exporters. His efforts were continued by Antonio Alfaro, head of the third generation of this coffee familyand are carried through today by Fernando Alfaro, the fourth generation of his family to farm coffee.
El Carmen is an extremely well-run specialty estateand is managed with scrupulous attention detail, with great emphasis placed on maintaining the identity of each lot from the moment its coffee cherries are harvested until the point when the green beans are ready for export. The estate’s coffee is produced under approximately 60% shade cover, which is required for the coffee to ripen evenly. Prior to the rainy season, shade trees are then pruned to about 40% shade to allow the access of light necessary for new foliage growth.The majority of the farm’s hectarage is under Bourbon (including the very special Orange Bourbon, which volunteered naturally on the farm but was then selected and replanted by Fernando) and Pacas; however, he is also planting small portions of the farm under experimental varieties, such as this Geisha.
During the harvest, the 100% Geisha cherries are hand-picked only when perfectly ripe and floated to remove any debris or underweight cherries. Geisha composes a very small portion of El Carmen’s overall plantings, and the cherries are very carefully handled so as to optimise the quality of the end product. After this, they are delivered to dry onAfrican Beds for21 days, where they are regularly raked(initially every 20 minutes)to ensure even drying. They spend an additional three to fourdays on clay patios, for a total drying time of around 26days. Finally, the beans are prepared and all defects removed and screened to uniform size.
El Carmen has also expanded into tourism services in recent years, offering coffee tours and overnight accommodation in the farm’s original family home. An institution in the area, it has become a proud symbol of Ataco village.