Heriberto Moreno Urrao, Colombia | FILTER

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Colombia is characterized by its many coffee-producing regions, microclimates, climbing altitudes, and excellent producers. Coffee did not spread in the country until the 19th century, thanks to Jesuit priests who first planted coffee in Colombia the previous century. Today, coffee is grown in 20 of the 35 departments in Colombia and is one of the world’s top producers thanks to its high and year-round yields. Production is dominated by exceptional smallholder producers, growing beautiful coffee throughout the many regions. In the southwest of the prominent coffee-producing region of Antioquia, is the department of Urrao. The area includes two fertile valleys and the rushing Penderisco River. Before colonization, Urrao was inhabited by the Catío people, who called the land Xundabé, meaning ‘dove refuge.’ When the colonizers arrived from Spain, this area was the location of great conflict when the chief Chief Toné succumbed to Vasco Nuñez de Balboa over 500 years ago. Today, the locals in Urrao are still searching for guacas, or indigenous burial sites, from the old communities. Urrao is now prominently agricultural land, providing vegetables for Medellín. The fertile lands and high altitudes make this an ideal area to also grow coffee and lately, avocados. There is also the well-known Paramo del So in Urrao, a protected highland ecosystem in Antioquia. Our exporting partner in Colombia, Pergamino, have been working in Urrao since 2014, actually being one of the first areas in their Producers Allied project. Pergamino first established this connection after a coffee from Antioquia made it to the top ten of the Cup of Excellence competition for the first time in history. The coffee came from Don José Arcadio Caro and his wife, Doña Marbe Luz, and Pergamino successfully purchased the lot with assistance from Mercanta. Pergamino thus initiated their presence in the region, learning more about the local coffee variety, Chiroso, and the climates of Urrao. In November of 2023, Pergamino opened their direct buying facility in Urrao, where producers bring their coffee after processing. They also offer trainings to producers for assistance with post-harvest processes. This specific lot comes from Finca La Sirenita in Urraro, a beautiful farm owned by Heriberto Moreno. He is 66 years old and has spent his entire life growing coffee. His wife has helped him on the farm since their marriage, and they have raised four children. Ramon, one of his sons, is following in his footsteps and working on the farm. Not only does Don Heriberto grow coffee, but he also cultivates Guayabamanzana, a special variety of guava. He has grown to love the land, and to see the fruits of his work. Specifically, he loves the Chiroso varietal because of its robust and floral tasting notes. He feels that Chiroso is not just coffee, but a source of pride and identity – a piece of Urraro culture and history. Even in his older age, Don Heriberto is passionate and energetic about his farm. He takes care of his trees, ensuring they have the necessary amount of nutrients and attention. The journey of coffee production, according to Don Heriberto, is not all about the final product, but it is about the care and dedication put into each step of the farming process. Something unique about Don Heriberto is that he is extremely efficient with his planting. He utilizes a planting distance of 1.8 meters by 2 meters, known as "Tres Bolillos" or "Pata de Gallina". This method allows him to achieve almost 3000 trees per hectare, much higher than the standard National Coffee Growers Federation (FNC) standard for smallholder producers in Colombia. After Don Heriberto hand picks his coffee during the harvest, he brings the cherries to his mill where the coffee is washed and pulped. The coffee then undergoes a mixed three-day fermentation to breakdown the external mucilage. Once fermentation is complete, the coffee is dried in the open sun, covered with plastic to protect it from any rain or moisture. As soon as the ideal moisture content is reached, the coffee is bagged and sent to the Pergamino dry mill in Medellín to be hulled and prepared for export.